Essence Magazine Sparks Racial Firestorm Over Fashion Director Appointment

Earlier this week, Essence Magazine, the iconic black lifestyle publication, sparked a storm of protest after it chose a white woman to be its new fashion director. Elliana Placas, Essence's new fashion director, has an impressive resume, and has worked with a number of mass-selling publications including: The Oprah Magazine, Us Weekly, New York, More and Life & Style. Yet, despite her credentials, Elliana's hiring garnered a viscous reaction from many of Essence's loyal readers as well as industry professionals. Since its inaugural issue 40 years ago, Essence has always had an African American fashion director, and few expected this to change. Still, while Essence may not have foreseen this reaction, the response has raised a number of serious questions that deserve to be revisited. Has Essence ignored its proud history by hiring a non African American fashion director, particularly considering the reality that African American creative professionals are under-represented within the publishing world? Moreover, as a collective group, should we be doing more to ensure that under-represented groups in all industries receive priority treatment during hiring competitions?

Immediately following the announcement, Essence's former fashion editor, Michaela Angela Davis, launched a verbal attack against the hiring. In her blog, Ms. Davis writes "It is with a heavy, heavy, heart I have learned that Essence magazine has engaged a white fashion director. This hurts, literally, spiritually. If there were balance in the industry, if we didn't have a history of being ignored and disrespected, if more mainstream fashion media included people of colour before the ONE magazine dedicated to black women 'diversified', it would feel different." For many within the industry, her comments have struck a close cord. Yet despite these accusations, Essence's editor-in-chief Angela Burt-Murray, vehemently defended the hiring. In a statement first released to the New York Post, Ms. Burt-Murray argued that Ms. Placas was working with the magazine 6 months prior to her appointment. According to Ms. Bury-Murray, Ms. Placas showed "creativity, vision, enthusiasm and respect for the audience and the Essence brand", evoking a reader response that had been extremely positive.

Despite these assurances, opinions remained conflicted regarding the announcement. After the appointment, several African-American commentators accused Essence of robbing a black woman of a rare job. As they note, for the past 40 years, Essence has been the one place that has championed African American employment, and questions remained whether this history is in jeopardy. In rebuttal, Sophia Nelson, an African American attorney, political commentator and communications strategist, argued that Essence was completely onside with its appointment. As she noted on CNN, "With all due respect to the critics, Essence magazine got it right. Kudos to editor-in-chief Angela Burt Murray and her team for having the good business sense and courage to elevate a qualified and talented white woman, who has served as a freelance editor in the fashion section for the last six months, in a time of such racial tension, cries of reverse racism, and calls for an end to "diversity programs. Essence is setting a very positive example in the magazine industry and at one of the world's largest corporations, Time Warner, that talent not race matters."

Despite a diverse collection of views, many readers, as well as industry professionals, remain undecided. It is hard to argue that Elliana Placas is a talented, visionary, able, energetic, qualified and well-connected; a professional that will undoubtedly help Essence continue its success. Still, it is equally true that the appointment of Elliana to a historically African American post has disrupted the rich history that Essence was building. So, rather than offering an opinion, I close by reposing the questions to you, the reader, and invite your response. Has Essence ignored its proud history by hiring a non African American fashion director? Is the magazine justified in its hiring decision? Finally, as a society and global community, should we be doing more to ensure that under-represented groups in all industries receive priority treatment during hiring competitions?

Photo Credits: Essence Magazine